Calheta beach
about 5 min by car
A golden beach with calm water, protected by two breakwaters, with cafés and restaurants right on the promenade. A good place for a first swim and a sunset walk.
Explore the sunny south-west
Arco da Calheta is a calm base on the sunniest side of the island. The beach and marina are a few minutes away, the old fishing villages of Madalena, Jardim do Mar and Paul do Mar follow along the coast, and the high plateau with the best-known levada walk of Madeira is behind you. This is what we would show a friend.
Places to see
Driving times are from the house and approximate.
Calheta marina
about 5 min by car
A small marina with restaurants along the quay. Boat trips for dolphins and whales leave from here, and the evening light on the cliffs is very good.
Engenhos da Calheta
about 5 min by car
The old sugar-cane mill of Calheta, now a small museum where rum and cane honey are still made. Taste a poncha or buy a bottle to take home.
Madalena do Mar
about 10 min by car
A quiet village between banana terraces and the sea, with a pebble beach and a seafront path. Pleasant for a slow morning and a coffee by the water.
Ponta do Sol
about 15 min by car
A sunny seafront town with a small beach, a promenade and a lively old centre. One of the places in Madeira with the most hours of sun.
Jardim do Mar
about 15 min by car
A tiny village below high cliffs, known for its surf break and its narrow streets. Park at the top, walk down and have lunch by the sea.
Paul do Mar
about 20 min by car
An old fishing village with a seafront promenade, rock pools and fish restaurants. It is a favourite with surfers and a good stop at sunset.
Paul da Serra plateau
about 30 min by car
The open highland above the coast, with windmills, heather and wide views down to the ocean. It is much cooler up here, so bring a jacket.
25 Fontes
about 40 min by car
A famous waterfall in a lush green basin, at the end of a levada walk from Rabaçal. Check the current access rules and fees before you go.
Levadas at Rabaçal
about 40 min by car
Old irrigation channels with a path along them, including tunnels carved in the rock. Take a torch for the tunnels and good shoes for the wet stones.
Three sample days
A slow day close to home
- Morning: swim at Calheta beach.
- Lunch at the marina.
- Afternoon: pool and sun loungers at the house.
- Evening: barbecue on the upper terrace.
Villages of the south-west
- Morning: Madalena do Mar and a coffee by the sea.
- Lunch in Jardim do Mar or Paul do Mar.
- Afternoon: Ponta do Sol and its promenade.
- Evening: sunset from the terrace.
Levadas and highland
- Morning: Rabaçal and the 25 Fontes walk.
- Lunch on the Paul da Serra plateau.
- Afternoon: viewpoints on the way back.
- Evening: a swim in the heated pool.
Sun all year
The south-west is the sunniest and driest part of Madeira, with mild temperatures in every season. The pool is heated, so you can swim from winter to summer. The highlands are cooler and can be misty, so check the weather before a mountain walk. These are general guidelines and the weather varies from day to day.
Eating and drinking
Madeiran food is simple and good. These are the things we would try first.
- Espetada
- Beef on a laurel skewer, grilled over the fire. The upper terrace has a churrasco for the same job.
- Bolo do caco
- Round flatbread served warm with garlic butter.
- Poncha
- A drink of sugarcane spirit, honey and lemon. The Engenhos da Calheta is a good place to try it.
- Lapas
- Grilled limpets with garlic and lemon, a typical starter by the sea.
- Bananas
- Small, sweet and grown on the terraces around Calheta. Ask for them at the local markets.
Calheta and its marina have several restaurants and cafés, and there are small fish restaurants in the villages along the coast.
Good to know
- Distances are short but roads are steep and winding, so allow more time than the map says.
- Sunscreen and a hat, even in winter.
- Swim only when the sea is calm, and follow the flags on the beaches.
- Book popular restaurants in the evening, especially in summer.
- For levada walks, wear shoes with grip and bring water.
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